Wednesday, September 26, 2007

place of hidden treasures

Arkan hommikul telefoni helisemise peale, 7.00, puuan silmi avada, aga ei tule valja, silmapealne on taiesti paistes, allergiline nahe utleb Mandy ja annab mulle kohaliku meditsiininaise telefoninumbri, ega ma kohe helistama ei kipu, Bettina annab mulle jahtunud rooibos teed ning ma katan oma silmad sellega, ikkagi naturaalne ja rahustav...eks nais mis saab, ma vaga ei muretse...nieuwoudtville on endiselt maagiline, enamasti mooduvad meist isuzu voi toyota margiga autod ja toomehed seal sees muudkui lehvitavad, ega ei ole nii et kae tudrukuid, lihtsalt inimesed on harjunud koikidele tervitusi saatma...ja see teeb seesmise tunde soojaks...eile tuli kontorisse Hendrik, lahme tema farmi reedel ja jaame sinna teisipaeva hommikuni, majapidamises elektrit vaga ei ole ja seega peame hakkama saama limiteeritud voimalustega, sobib, aafrika hakkab lahemale joudma just siin ja praegu...maed umberringi on aarmiselt rahulikud, istume vaikselt ja lihtsalt vaatleme...maapind hakkab jarjest kuivemaks muutuma, silmnahtavad praod on sees, ilmaasjata ei oelda, et oleme korbepiirkonnas...veel on naha veidi lilli ja rohelust aga seda kauaks enam pole...suvel on magedes ussid, uhh, ja Hendrik utleb et tema farmis on neid ka ja kui nad sind hammustavad, siis tuleb bensiini juua...mhmmm...

My phone is ringing at 7 in the morning, trying to open my eyes but some allergical condition has attacked me and my eyes are very small and hard to open...Mandy gives me a number of the local medical woman but i’m trying to avoid that and instead Bettina is giving me some rooibos tea to cover my eyes with, it works, at least i have a strong faith in it...nieuwoudtville (place of hidden treasures as they promote themselves) is still magical, the passing people are greeting us as we are long-term friends with them...Hendrik came by yesterday, we will go to his farm on friday and work there til tuesday morning, there is not much electricity at his place and the lifestyle has its limits, its simple and that is making us feel more „africa” if i can put it this way...the surrounding here is still worth to be surprised of, the mountains just keep on been quiet and i can’t stop looking at them...the ground is getting drier and drier every day...there is a reason why they call it a desert-area i guess...there are still some green points and flowers but it will go in some days now...there are snakes in the mountains and Hendrik says they are in his farm as well and if they bite you, you just have to drink some petrol...mhmm...sounds „traditional” ehh:):):)

Thursday, September 20, 2007

nieuwoudtville

Kolmas paev Nieuwoudtville’s…astusin koige kuumema eesti suve sisse ja nemad utlevad vaid, et ehh see on koigest kevad…on hea…Nieuwoudtville asub 4 tunni kaugusel kui kiire autoga soita, meie reis kestis pea 8 tundi…raffique oli sobralik minibussijuht…tahtis kogu tee lobiseda aga mina olin nii vasinud...kogusin vaatamata koigele kogu oma tahtejou kokku ja lobisesin vastu, ikka sellest et kus eesti asub ja mis keelt meie mail raagitakse ja palju keskmine palk on ja kui palju autod maksavad ja miks ma liha ei soo:)
Kaplinnast lahkuda oli vaga nukker, teisalt aga tahtsin minema joosta juba esmaspaeva hommikul peale kurbi uudiseid ja pisarate hulka…peale selle pidime utlema head aega sopradele, kes olid pugenud hinge lahedale…uhhh…vaga veider...
Tana aga on juba parem...kula, kus me elame on vaike (1000 elanikku) ja valjad on lilli tais ja ohk on puhas ja tahed on lahedal ja ohtul saab pimedas ringi jalutada, sest on soe ja turvaline…ja koik tulvad tervitades meile tanaval vastu, keset kula on 1 asfaldtee, teised teed on punasemullalist varvi, tahaks kohe seal peal pikutada ja ilusat sinist taevast terve paeva vaadata...kull aga on kuum, ule 30 kraadi...on hea...
Me jaame siia kolmeks nadalaks, internet on harv nahtus, nii et ega ma suurt siin kirjeldada ei saa...tuleb vaid tood teha ja nautida seda mis on...ja see mis on, on suureparane...

The third day in Nieuwoudtville...i’ve entered the hottest estonian summer weather and south africans just smile and say: eneli, this is just the spring:) ehh...lovely...nieuwoudtville is about 4 hours drive from cape town (if to take a good car), but our trip took appr. 8 hours...raffique (minibus driver) just had to pick up and drop by some things and due to this fact the travel was longer...he was a nice guy though...wanted to talk all the time, but as i hadn’t been sleeping much the previuos nights, i felt extremely tired and my eyes were fighting against being open...i still had a long chat with him, about where is estonia and what language i speak and how much is the average salary and how much the cars cost and why i don’t eat meat:)
Leaving cape town was kind of hard, but on the other hand i just needed to run away after hearing the sad news on Monday and crying a lot...as well we said good-bye to the house we lived for 1,5 months and the guys etc etc....strange...
It’s much better today, neiuwoudtville is a small village (1000 inhabitants) and the fields are covered with millions of flowers and the stars are clear in the sky and the air is clean and it’s possible to have a walk in the dark cause it’s warm and safe...i really missed that...all the people greet you in the street...there is only on tard road and the other roads are covered with the red soil which makes it to feel like lying down and just observing the blue sky...but i’s hot...over 30 degrees now...which is really fine after the long winter...and just being here for some hours we bumped into one older guy who actually works in stellenbosch and makes some tours for tourists and he was amazed by the fact that there are two europeans in the middle of nowhere working here, so he was so so amazed that he asked us to call him when we get back to the city and he will make us a free wine tour in stellenboschJJJ wolaaa....no wonder ah:)
We will stay here for 3 weeks, internet is rare so i won’t be able to write much...i’ll just work hard and enjoy whatever is here for me...and it’s more than super...

Monday, September 17, 2007

Soyiso

Name: Soyiso Mtemekwana
Age: 31 years
Country: South Africa
Profession: intern in EMG (Environmental Monitoring Group)
Family: Living alone in the shack he built himself in Khayelitsha, has a son-9 years old
Breakfast: nothing, cause there is not much to eat, if it is a lucky day he has a sandwich
Soyiso's normal day: he wakes up at 5 in the morning, reads a lot, meets his friends, is interested in politics, he is taking part in some political activities, around 21 o"clock comes back home and reads again, at 22 he goes to sleep
Travelling: no, he doesn't have a passport cause he can't afford it
The place he would really like to go: Venezuela with the boat
Do you feel happy?: "I feel angry cause things in SA are not getting better..."
What would make you happy? : "Being safe makes me happy...this is the most important thing for me..."
How you imagine your life in 5 years? : "I hope to be alive and i hope the politics of this country has improved..."
What comes to your mind when thinking of Europe?: "the world of differences and coping with it..."
Is there anything you would like to tell or ask people in Europe?: " how you decribe solidarity in the place you are?"

Soyiso was killed this weekend...and i just got to know him...pffffffffffffffffffff........

Friday, September 14, 2007

nosipho

fezeka oli eile (neljapäeval) tuulise päikese palava pilgu all...töö, mis tarvis teha koosnes sibulate, spinati ja punapeetide istutamisest...mamad olid heas tujus...sõime ära kaks magwinjat ja ma andisn tänutäheks kõikidele memmedele eesti nimed...mamad ise elavad nigelates tingimustes Guguletu townshipis, aiatöö annab neile toidu, peale selle toetavad nad kõik paari-kolme HIV viiruse kandjat...HIV on vaenlane, mille vastu lõuna-aafrika püüab võidelda, aga viimaste uuringute kohaselt on olukord pigem halvenenud...aga inimesed aitavad, isegi siis kui neil endal midagi anda pole...
vaesus tänavatel seevastu paneb aeg-ajalt võpatama...eile oli meie ukse taga mees, alandlikult pöördus meie poole, alandlikult rääkis oma loo, alandlikult vaatas meile otsa...kui olime talle selgitanud, et meil midagi anda pole, muutus tema väga alandlik pilk saatanlikult agressiivseks ja sõnum äärmiselt ebameeldivaks...fredrik ütles: fuck it!...
Green Market ja Green Point Market on päris mõnusad kohad, kus iga kauplejahing aina meeleheast turtsataks...isegi mina tingisin nii mis susises...

last thursday's Fezeka garden smelled with good energy...instead of weeding we could do many more other stuff...and for extra they all gave us xhosa names (well, i must admit that i have 3 already) and in return i gave them all some espacially beautiful estonian names which they wrote down and try to rememeber...so in Guguletu i'm called as Nosipho which basically means a "gift"...
there are still some issues i should protect myself from...there was a guy behind our gate the other day, begging for money...we didn't give him anything and the whole "begger-attitude"changed immediately and the mean words coming from him attacked me the way i wasn't prepared for...had a discussion with fredrik about that late at this night and he said finally: fuck it!
Mahira had promised us and Weziwe that she will learn how to cook during the left-time in South Africa...and she learned well...we tasted delicious tomatoe soup, chicken and curry meal+ a dessert on saturday night in Kuilsriver...waw...respect Malta!!!
And so the days are passing...


Monday, September 10, 2007

uphilile na namhlanje? ewe, ndiphilile kanye.

Khayelitsha,Scaga-aed...memmed rohivad, istutavad taimi, kastavad, müüvad saaki sisseastujatele/toidu vajajatele...meile antakse tööriistad kätte ja mitme tunni jooksul pistame käe mulda, peenrad saavad umbrohust puhtaks, sedakorda on mul kindad käes ja ükski nõges mind ei ründa...lapsed tulevad mingil hetkel koolist ja hüüavad tervitusi üle aia, naeratavad, lehvitavad...mõned täiskasvanud proovivad meie juures õnne, paluvad meil üht kapsapead üle aia ulatada, aga see ei lähe läbi...Abalimi aiad kuuluvad kogukondadele, ja kõik seal sees olev kuulub neile, enamasti kasvatatakse köögivilju, mida oma pere üleval pidamiseks vaja läheb, kui saak on suurem ja kõik nõus on, siis müüakse teistele...memmed ja taadid räägivad, et pole vaja oodata, mis valitsus nende heaks teha saab, tuleb ise leida võimalusi ära-elamiseks...tööd tuleb teha...mama Veronicaga teeme intervjuu, ta räägib xhosa keeles ja mama Joyce püüab tõlkida...mõlema elurõõmsuse taga peitub ilmatu suur maailm, vaatan ja tunnen kirjeldamatut kadedust...aga samas ka puhast rõõmu selle üle, et olen nende ringi sattunud...Abalimi pole meie projekt, aga Stephen (me boss) ütleb, et kõik, mis meie siinolekut rikastab on teretulnud nähtus ja laseb meid aeg-ajalt kontorist välja:) sel nädalal lähme taas Fezeka aeda, loodetavasti näen mama Mablet...
Diva's on koht, kuhu me aeg-ajalt sisse astume, et juua üks kuum shokolaad, akende peal on päkapikud (ilmselt eelmise aasta jõuludest saadik!)...istume lauda, ja tuleb tüdruk, naerab, hüüab kaugelt et aaa, hot-chocolate girls...mhmm...
Amina (Zainabi ema) saab sel nädalal 50 aastaseks, kuna muslimitel algab paast, siis toimusid pidustused laupäeval, et saaks rohkelt süüa, laulda, tantsida ja lustida (ja mitte tilkagi alkoholi!)...olime Nataschaga piduliste nimekirjas...wolaaa...mmm...ma pole väga kindel kas mul jätkub selle kõige kirjeldamiseks õigeid sõnu...kardan et kõik kirjeldatu muutub mõnevõrra banaalseks...toon ära märksõnad - lambaliha, 4-tunnine karaoke, tantsulustivad memmed, taadid, noored-vanad, puhkpilliorkester, palju lapsi, head inimesed...igatahes on mul nüüd taskus mitukümmend uut küllakutset, uhhh...
Hermanus...pühapäevane vaalajaht kandis vilja, istusime kaljunukil ja lasksime vallatutel vaaladel meile paar näitemängu teha...ja nad tantsisid:):):)

Scaga garden
in Khayelitsha...mama's and papa's faces are full of smiles and joy of life, i'm glad that i have had an opportunity to meet them, to work with them and have had a bit of talk with them...all of them believe in themselves, their work, their children...it's not actually our project, but Stephen (our boss) said that if we want to escape from the office from time to time and we find something enriching, then he doesn't really mind...and i'm thankful for that...while weeding we see children coming from the schools, they look at us, they wave to us, they say hello and most importnatly they smile...there is a creche nearby we hear, there are cars with loud music driving by, there are construction works just across the streets and there are mountains and there is the sun...this is our Khayelitsha...
Diva's is the cafe we step in from time to time, we are famous alraedy, cause most of the times we just need a cup of hot chocolate, so the waitresses know from far already what to bring to us:) they laugh and say "aa, the hot chocolate girls"... it makes it "homie"in a way...
Amina is the mother of Zainab and she will be 50 this week...we were invited to her birthday party and experienced the way of celebration with and among them...i'm not sure if i have the right words to explain and express myself to describe it...it was too good to be true...and if to think of it, i'm not really sure if it actually happened...mhhh...it did, i know...
Hermanus is the place we saw the whales who made some little performances for us to make us laugh and say "waw", ohh", and uhh"...:)

Monday, September 3, 2007

thando...bhulowu

september käes...kodanikud õpilased eestis lähevad kooli....kodanikud tudengid lõuna-aafrikas hingavad kergendatult, sest kevad-vaheaeg algas just nüüd ja praegu...kas pole kummaline? ja päike paistab meil...ühel esmaspäevasel päeval võtad vastu otsuse, et ei lähe kontorisse...helistad sõbrale ning sõidad Philippi townshippi, kus asub väike "konteiner-lasteaed", lapsi on omajagu, vanuses 1-6 ja kõik nad hüüavad "mlungu, mlungu" (valge inimene) ja tulevad ja puudutavad sind ja musitavad su käsi, hetkeks tekib klaustrofoobiline hirm ja tahaks kohe ära joosta, aga siis märkad, et kõik ongi lihtsalt teistmoodi, harjud peale 2 minutit, jooksed nendega välja, laulad, mängid, hullad...konteiner koosneb kolmest toast, põrand on liivane ja lapsed istuvad, söövad ja püherdavad selle peal...ja siis tuleb lõunapaus...lahkume hetkel kui kõik on madratsite peal pikali (lõunauinak) kogu varustuses...vaatad neid ja sosistad "head aega", nad vaatavad oma shokolaadisilmadega sulle otsa, lehvitavad ning saadavad õhusuudlusi...astud tänavale ja su suul on ilmatu suur naeratus...
ühel teisel päeval viib värske abielupaar sind kaplinna vanimasse jazzi-klubisse...mhhh...ruum on inimestest pungil ja nad tantsivad...liiga ilusasti...sinu kõrvale ilmuvad 2 hollandi noorhärrat, kes ilmselgelt "landivad" ilusaid neegritüdrukuid...ohkad ja mõtled, et eurooplastest pääsu pole ka siin...kontsert lõppeb kesköö paiku ja sinu sisse kogunenud energia ei lase sul veel sooja magamiskoti sisse pugeda...lunid Sintut, et minna ja juua üks kuum shokolaad...ta on nõus...hea...kaplinn on öises rüüs, hingad, suled korra silmad ja salvestad kogu oleluse...soovid, et see hetk kestaks igavesti...alles nüüd hakkad tundma, et oled "kodus", üleliigse hirmu ohtude ja riskide ees pistad tagataskusse...üle pika aja lihtsalt tunned et kõik on liiga ilus et olla tõsi...
ühel teistmoodi eelmisel pëval sõidad randa, jooksed lainetes (pff vesi on veel külm), ehitad liivalosse, oled tavaline eestlane, kes läheb pisut pööraseks niipea kui päike on väljas ja veekogu läheduses, lihtsalt oledki üks väike inimene...ronid enne pïkeseloojangut Signal Hilli otsa ja näed jälle hunnitut ilu enda ees ja tunned JÄLLE et oled liiga väike ja see siin on niiiii suur...

september has arrived, beilieve it or not, but yes with the SUN, wolaa...students (some of them) in cape town can enjoy their spring break this week, students in estonia on the contrary start their studies today...everything is upside down here or maybe there...i had a chance to go to Mahira's creche last monady...was an experience which is still in my mind...but the children were amazing (kissing your hands, hugging you, singing and dancing with you), i still picture the last thing i saw just before leaving the place, all of them just started to have their lunch-break-sleep, and they were lying down, looking at my eyes, waving for good-bye and sending me the air-kisses...waw... this is what counts...all the practical arrangements of life of the township children just fades for a second...they are you and you are them...mhhh...
on friday i enjoyed the jazz concert with Zainab and her husband(!), and after that i felt so full of music and good energy which couldn't be hidden under the sleeping bag right away, so i just asked Sintu to go and have a hot chocolate with me which we finally did...mhhh...
so the last week of august turned out to be extra-special, extra-experienced, extra-emotional... feel like having these moments for much more longer than the seconds which pass so quickly...